(Privately shared on November 4, 2022 with a select group of friends). The above is a photo of Cobh Cathedral at sunset. More photos can be found here.
As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original journal. Underlined words are edits for clarification within the original journal. I’m also adding new notes in my journal as I share it, mostly historical information of the things I’ve seen and researched upon my return and random thoughts. This will be represented in regular type.
15 September ~ Cobh (morning)
Next to the Rock of Cashel was Hore Abbey. Hore Abbey is a ruined Cistercian monastery built in 1272. I had heard that it was possible to walk to it from the Rock of Cashel and found a path, but near the end of the path was a gate and I didn’t even try to see if it was unlocked – so I turned around and walked back to the gift shop to get a magnet. I hadn’t really investigated getting to Hore Abbey before I got to the Rock of Cashel, and the path I found seemed to be taking me away from the Abbey and onto private property. I asked the shop girl about the Abbey and she said if I wanted to walk to it, just go back the way I came. I mentioned the gate I saw and she looked at me like I was an idiot and said to go through it! Because it was after 4.00 already, I decided to drive there. Once I got there, though, I realized there was no place to park so I double backed and parked at a nearby campground. I walked to the entrance (and should have gotten a picture of the road), and saw that the Abbey was on private property – a farm. In the end, I just took photos of it from afar. By the time I left, it was 430p and I had a two hour drive ahead of me. Still, I’m so glad I stopped at the Rock of Cashel.
The drive to Cobh was mostly uneventful, aside from being honked at once. I did experience my first ‘Seriously, I’m a two lane road! I can’t help it if I look like an alley!’ situation. However, when the other car approached there was a spot for me to pull over to let it pass. I suspect when I drive to Goleen later today I’ll see much of that. (Drivers pulling over to let others pass). Driving in Ireland is 97% fine, 2% confusing, especially at double roundabouts and 5% white knuckle anxiety!
I got to Cobh at 6.30p – later that I originally intended. And again, during the drive I saw great beauty, including a small castle with a gold tree on top! That castle is called Belvelly Castle and is located in County Cork, near Cobh. I came upon it very suddenly – I turned a corner and there it was. But because I was anxious to get settled at my bed and breakfast, I didn’t stop to get a photo of it.
My hostess, Mary, wasn’t available to check me inbut (her husband?) Michael got me sorted. I asked about dinner as I hadn’t eaten since my huge Irish Breakfast. He said most places usually close at 7.00p! But he thought I could still find something. I decided to just go out and then get my bags from the car later, but Michael was very chatty. I finally left the bed and breakfast at 6.45p but by the time I got to the restaurant he had recommended, it had stopped serving dinner. Can you imagine?
Cobh is on the sea and is home to the final port of call of the Titanic. Many victims of the Lusitania are buried here and the town is simply beautiful. There is a huge Catholic Cathedral (St Colman’s) that I wanted to shoot so I climbed up the hill and was glad for the exercise. The cathedral was open so I snuck in to say prayers and to light a candle for Charlie. I didn’t feel comfortable shooting inside it without permissionbut it was simply gorgeous. When I left, I felt like a good Catholic visiting all these cathedrals and saying prayers, and thought of Grandpa Bene. He was with me, I know.
Afterwards, I walked back down the hill and ended up at my place – Kelly’s Bar.
Kelly’s Bar is what I would call a typical bar in Ireland. It had a bright red front with gold lettering, a Guinness sign and seating outside. The weather was mild so I got myself a pint of Murphys and sat outside. (This croissant is divine, and the raspberry jam is delightful!) (I typically wrote of my adventures in my journal the following morning). Anyway, soon after, a man sat down near me but close enough that we could talk. We struck up a conversation and soon I learned his name was Nigel and he’s an Irishman living in England but visiting his brother. He’s an EMT. We shared a couple of pints and I switched from Murphys to cider and then to water. We had moved inside as there was the promise of live music at 9pm and just talked and talked and talked. The ‘music’ turned out to be a guy playing countrycovers – something I would see in Nashville! I was disappointed because not only was it covers but it was a mediocre musician playing covers!
I realized it was quite late and I still hadn’t unpacked my car. Nigel wanted me to stay but I politely declined. He then suggested we go back to his place! When he saw my hesitation, he promised he would be a gentleman (but I knew he wouldn’t be) and that we would only talk (a likely story) and he told me to take a chance. I was flattered but declined and I’m sure he thinks I’m a coward and a prude. Still, it was nice to be told I was beautiful and that I had the most beautiful eyes he had seen.
Before, he asked me something peculiar. He asked how I could look so happy and yet so sad at the same time. This will stay with me for awhile.
I got back to the bed and breakfast around midnight and sent a quick email to Dad and Bob saying I had arrived. After a shower I climbed into bed, having set the alarm for 6.30a
I forgot to pack my comb! But I use it so seldomly I guess it isn’t a surprise. Still, my hair is quite a mess.
I did not sleep well at all during the night, not because of discomfort but because of bad dreams. I had a dream of being abducted and even cried out during the night. Then another bad dream about being stalked. Charlie was in them both in the backgroud. I’m sure my subconcious mind was thinking of my time with Nigel and his indecent proposal.
The place I’m staying at is quite nice and across from the sea. The building is in a quad, originally built for the British and is 100 years old. It served as the Garda (police station). I’m actually staying in a – oh the church bells are tolling! It just turned 9am and they chimed nine times and is now chiming a hymn! It’s lovely! Anway, I’m staying in a private cottage separted from the house. There is a lovely courtyard (where I am now) separating my cottage and the house. I’m sitting out here enjoying two freshly baked croissants, raspberry jam and coffee. The inside of my cottage is very modern with a walk in shower and a kitchenette. This would be the perfect place to stay for a few nights and I’m sad I’m just here for one night. I stayed at the West Beach House in Cobh. There is a giant brown spider on my jacket! Go away!
Today I’m heading to Jameson Distillery and then to Cork and hopefully Kinsale before heading to Mitzen View. It’s a beautiful day.
15 September, Mitzen Head(evening)
I contributed to the Irish economy today! I went to the Jameson distillery tour and was almost late because parking was so fierce. Luckily, I made it and had only missed the video introduction of the tour. The tour was very similar to the Jack Daniels tour in Lynchburg, but Jameson is much smoother than Jack. I got the Jamesom and Ginger with lime as my complementary drink and I loved it. I bough myeslf an oversided Jameson hoodie, a magnet and REDACTED FOR SEVERAL LINES I’m not sure if I’ll need to purchase a larger piece of luggage or not. If I wear lots of layers and shove everything into my two cases I might be OK. But I still have another week of shopping! Oop, I just remembered I’m going to get a bathrobe frm the castle. I’ll need another suitcase after all.
After the tour I stopped at a grocery store and picked up bread, butter, jam, peanut butter and breakfast bars for my stay in Goleen. When I got there, they had most of that stuff from other guests! Oh well, at least I’ll have it for running around. The bread it really good. It’s the same white bread I had in Dublin.
I didn’t know if I would have enough time to explore Cork properly so I just went to Kinsale, but didn’t really explore it either. I got fish and chips from a food truck and it was so so good. When I finished, I fed the waiting (begging?) seagulls the rest of my chips and it reminded me of the time Chuck and I went to the Outer Banks and I fed them there. I really miss him.
Oh, I didn’t realize Jameson uses American barrels for their barrels. They get half of them from Kentucky and the other half from Spain. The Kentucky ones had bourbon and the Spanish ones port. They use both barrels then blend the mixture together.
After lunch I headed to Goleen – about a two hour drive. i’m getting more and more used to driving here. And I discovered that Pierre also has a lane assistance view on the dashboard which is handy on narrow lanes. I also discovered if I line up a sticker inside the car with the white line in the road, I’m good. Speaking of narrow lanes, let me take a picture.
The drive to Goleen again was stunningly beautiful.
I can’t believe I forgot about the cemetary! Before the Jameson tour, I was talking with Mary as I checked out and mentioned the old cemetary that I had seen signs for. She said it was beautiful and I should try to get there before the tour. Because I had such a late night last night, and a somewhat early morning without a restful sleep, I lingered over her croissants and jam. My tour was scheduled for 11am and I had to move my car by 10am and the distance from Cobh to Jameson was about 30 minutes. I got to the cemetary but only allowed myself 15 minutues, knowing it would turn into 20 minutues, to explore. The grounds were beautiful and some of the headstones were amazingly detailed and ornate. There were three mass graves for the victims of the Lusitania and the village had commissioned three glass headstones with the known named victims. It was so beautiful and peaceful.
My place in Goleen is called Mitzen Place and is paradise itself. I got here around 5.30p and am now on the patio writing this entry. I bought two cans of beer from their supply for myself – one for tonight and one for tomorrow. It’s Hop House 13 Lager and is very good.
I’m listening to Battlestar Galactia music and watching the sun set. There is a soft breeze so I have on my new hoodie. I can hear the cows mooing and the birds singing (there are a lot of black crows here). I am content. This tripis well worth the money, sacrifice, tears and sweatit took to get here. I hope I can hold onto ths feeling forever.
An annoyance occurred in Cashel. After I got my magnet, I wanted to run to the toilet before heading to Cobh. There was a simple minded older woman just standing in front of the damn door! I said ‘excuse me’ and must have scared her because she jumped, which made me drop my wallet and phone. The screen is cracked but thankfully the phone still works. How dumb!
After I went inside I made myself a peanut butter and jam sammie and listened to my lesson, then audiobook. The booking head advertised access to a wash machine but when I inquired about it, I was given less than enthusiastic permission to use it, a reminder that most people do laundry when they get home, and a lecture about the high cost of utilities. (The hostess is German). Even though I had planned on doing some laundry, I really only needed to clean undies and my black pants. I decided to do them in the sink instead. When I was washing up, I looked outside and gasped at the stars. I have never seen stars like that before.
I just got back from being outside for a moment (I think I scared my hosts as the motion light turned on). I sat underneath the stars and just marveled at their beauty and the clarity of the night. There was no noise – no airiplanes or helicopters, no music or traffic, just beauty. I could see a ship on the ocean and saw bats flying around. It was amazing. And then I went to bed and realized there was a skylight above me allowing me to continue to gaze at the stars. And I was at peace.
