Category: An Irish Adventure ~ 2022

In September 2022, I took my first solo trip to Ireland. I planned the entire trip myself and found that not only do I love planning trips, I love traveling. This trip turned me into Kelly the Brave and I’ve been looking for Grand Adventures ever since.

A note about the format of this travel journal. I’ve shared the original dates in the body of each journal entry. In order to make the journal chronological, I had ‘fudge’ the dates of the bottom of each post. Please ignore them.

I originally shared my travel journal with a select group of friends, but want to share it with everyone. I hope you enjoy An Irish Adventure.

The photo above was taken in Bantry, Ireland at sunset. More photos can be found here.

Kelly the Brave
March 2026

(Privately shared on September 28, 2022 with a select group of friends). The above photo is the spiral staircase in the Old Library at Trinity College. More photos can be found here

This is the first part of my Irish journal that I kept for my trip.  I’ll try to post at least once a week and will include photos when I can.
A note about formatting:  Words writing in italics represent the original journal.  Underlined words are edits for clarification within the original journal.

An Irish Adventure

My Grand Adventure started on Saturday 10 Sept. Amy came over and we went to Thistle Farms for brunch, then she dropped me off at the airport.  Getting through security was a breeze as was the flight to Atlanta – only 40 minutes.  The flight to Dublin had some turbulence, but other than that it was fine.  The flight was booked and I had an aisle seat in the middle section.  An Irishman named Martin sat next to me and next to him was Diane, who lives in Cary, NC.  I found that I didn’t need my external battery or even my lap book.  The entertainment had music and movies so I listened to jazz and watched Aquaman. The food was meh.

Diane works for Facebook so she let me share her cab to the Dublincity center.  I was nervous about the bus so getting to the city center with her generous offer to share a cab was very sweet of her.  I eventually made myself situated and after changing some money, and with the help of a shop girl, I managed to get on the correct bus to my Air BnB.  Unfortunately for me, Roseanne, the Air BnB hostess, wasn’t very clear about what stop to get off and I ended up getting off too early.  A man got me in the right direction and after I walked what seemed like for miles, another man confirmed that I was on the right path and almost to the house.  Once I arrived, I was so tired!  But I couldn’t check in until 3.30 so I dropped my luggage off then walked some more to figure out how to kill time. I arrived at the house a little after 2pm I ended up at a supermarket and decided to explore.  It reminded me of the supermarkets in England and Canada.  Afterwards, I went to a chicken place and legit had the best chicken tenders ever!  They tasted buttery and were so good!  I made my way back to the house and after I got settled, took a nap for an hour and then emailed Dad and Bob.  I went to bed around 8.30p and slept soundly.

The next morning, the 12th, I ventured out to Trinity College for the campus and Book of Kells tour.  The weather was drizzly.  I eventually made it to the tour location and joined about 16 more people for the tour.  Unfortunately, today was the first day of school so we couldn’t go into any buildings except one.  We ended with the Book of Kells, which was cool to see.  However, the best part was the Old Library!  I took my mask off to breathe in the books and the history and immensely enjoyed it.

More later. It’s past my bedtime.

(Privately shared on October 9, 2022 with a select group of friends). Photo of my rental car, that I eventually named Pierre! More photos can be found here.

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original journal. Underlined words are edits for clarification within the original journal.  I’m also adding new notes in my journal as I share it, mostly historical information of the things I’ve seen and researched upon my return and random thoughts.  This will be represented in regular type. 

6pm ~ New Ross 13 September

By the Grace of God, I got to the Dublin airport without issue via the bus.  I picked up my car – again without issue.  It’s a lovely grey Peugeot that seems brand new.  I reserved a mini class car and expected a Ford Ka or similar (like Violet, my current car (Honda Fit), and was pleased to have been given an upgrade. I’ll have to check if the price is the same but I think it was.  It was not.  Joe, the car rental agent who helped me, was as smooth as Jameson whiskey and upgraded my car selection in such a way that I didn’t even notice the price difference when I signed everything.  Still, my car was very nice and I can laugh at my naivety!  I didn’t get the GPS after all as I have an Irish phone.  Obviously, there isn’t a cell phone holder but it works well enough.  Driving stick shift was second nature, though I am glad that Bob let me drive his Jeep last time I was visiting him!  Driving on the left again was second nature.  My car is smarter than I am!  It gently nudges me if it thinks I’m too far to the right or left and alerts me if it senses something near it – like the guy who crossed the street in front of me!  I suspect I cross lanes at times at roundabouts, must be careful!  A quick funny story:  I bypassed highways in Ireland and got turned around when I started off on my adventure.  Google directed me to IKEA to turn around.  I knew there was an IKEA in Dublin and anyone who knows me well knows I’m a sucker for shopping at IKEA, but before I left for my trip, I forbade myself to visit it.  I had quite the chuckle that I went there after all to turn around!  I swear I didn’t go in!

Google sent me down the M11 though I did stray from navigation.  I saw a sign for Fern Castle and had to check it out.  I think I found it on the grounds of an old church.  I made my way back to the church and of course it had a centuries old cemetery.  I got out and spent maybe 30 minutes on the grounds – it was amazing.  And happily the weather was perfect – sunny and about 65^.  I actually ended up at the Cathedral Church of St Edan and mistook the nearby St Mary’s Augustinan Abbey as Ferns Castle.  The castle was actually a stone’s throw away from St Edan’s but I didn’t realize and never went to find it.  However, I enjoyed St Edan’s immensely.  St Edan’s was originally built in the 1230s and the original ruins are still there.  St Mary’s is older as it was founded around 1160-1162.

When I was finished shooting the church, I saw that it was almost 4pm.  I had wanted to head to the coast but also wanted time to spend in New Ross, as I will be leaving after breakfast.  I ended up going to New Rossand checked in around 430p.  I had a bit of a scare because the door to the B&B was locked!  But I eventually saw a doorbell and was granted entry. 

My room is quite nice – a queen and a twin sized bedswith my own private bathroom.  After I checked in and got settled, I realized that I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast in Dublin, which was very yummy white bread with Irish butter.  My hostess, Mary I think her name is (her name is Bridget) suggested Ann McDonald’s restaurant which is just down the lane.  But she warned me that they might close early.  I grabbed my camera and went off to explore New Ross.

My New Ross exploration was short on account of my hunger but the city (village?) is beautiful.  There is a John F Kennedy connection here and I saw a memorial to him by the river.  President Kennedy visited New Ross in the summer of 1963.  New Ross is the Irish town that the Kennedy family emigrated from.  New Ross is also the town where many Irish emigrated from during the potato famine.  New Ross is so pretty.  I went back to Ann McDonald’s and had merlot x2, lasagna, chips and red coleslaw. (I had stopped in before I went exploring to see what time they stopped serving dinner).  It was very very good.  I’m going to pay my bill and hopefully get some photos at sunset.  Or I’ll just get into jams!

Some things of note:  I am not a light packer!  My Monos carryon is top notch but my hiking shoes take up half a side!  My boots don’t even fit in the show bags!  Overall, though, I’d give my Monos five stars.  It held up nicely on sidewalks, stairs, cobblestone and rain.  My Bento Bag thankfully is well-made because it is stuffed!  Granted, my camera takes up most of the space and I have to say a little prayer that it will zip close every time I move on.  I”m not convinced that it fits under an airplane seat as advertised, but that might be because it’s so full.  Still five stars!.  Both bags are well worth the extra money because I think they will last a long time!  Before my trip, I treated myself to new luggage.  Whenever I visited Bob in Florida, I usually packed my backpack and a soft canvas bag, and wanted something nicer for my Ireland trip.  After many hours of research, I decided to purchase the Monos Carry On Pro bag.  It is a hard sided rolling carry on that is very structured, organizationally, and comes with a lifetime guarantee.    It’s the perfect size for overhead bins and even though my hiking boots took up a lot of space, it holds a lot of clothes.  It also held up nicely being thrown into the car, the bins in the airplane and on rough surfaces.  For my personal item bag, again after a lot of research, I selected the Nomad Lane Bento’s Bag.  Again, it is very well organized but most importantly for me, I felt safe keeping my camera equipment in it.  I took my Nikon D750 with me to Ireland and wanted something to keep my gear safe, without looking like a camera bag (and a potential target for theft).  The bag is very well made, with a strong zipper, and lots of pockets to keep one organized.  It only comes with a one year warranty, but it’s so well made and convenient, that I’m sure it will become my ‘go to’ bag for long weekend trips.  There were cheaper options for both bags, but I nabbed both of them on sale and am pleased with my choices.

13 Sept – evening

After a second glass of Merlot, I was off chasing the sunset.  I had noticed a beautiful church on my first walkabout and headed towards it, hoping to catch it in the setting sun.  Once I got there, I realised there was a service called Invitation.  A lovely lady invited me in, so I sat down on a pew and prayed.  It was a lovely service – very simple and moving.  It was just people praying in the pews.  A few people lit candles.  At the end there was a short group prayer then dismissal.  The woman who invited me in checked on me because I was emotional (duh) and said I was welcomed any time.  When I got outside, I took some photos and saw a man walking out.  I told him he was blessed to be able to worship in such a beautiful place and we got to talking.  His name was Dennis and in the end he gave me a keychain he got from Jerusalem that had been blessed by a priest.  It was incredibly thoughtful and generous and he shall always remain in my heart.

A quick Google search revealed that the Church was St Mary and Michael Catholic Church which opened in 1210!  The service was Adoration, not Invitation.

St Mary and Michael Catholic Church was built in 1894 and opened in 1902.

Also, New Ross has cats!

(Privately shared on October 29, 2022 with a select group of friends). The above is a black and white photo of the Rock of Cashel. More photos can be found here.

Sorry I’ve been neglectful in sharing my Irish Adventure with you. I have *a lot* of photos to cull through.  But here is the newest chapter, for your enjoyment.

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original journal. Underlined words are edits for clarification within the original journal.  I’m also adding new notes in my journal as I share it, mostly historical information of the things I’ve seen and researched upon my return and random thoughts.  This will be represented in regular type. 

14 September ~ New Ross

A feast for breakfast!  Coffee (French pressed!), orange juice, dollar size pancake with two blueberries and two strawberries, breads (white and nut) then the main course, a traditional Irish Breakfast!  Two mushroom caps, runny egg, hash brown, two linked sausages, one black pudding, one white pudding and two slices of ham. Then to top it off, fruit with berry yogurt and granola.  If I have to eat again, I’m a glutton!

14 September ~ Cobh

After I packed up the car, I headed to Waterford to the House of Waterford Crystal Museum.  I got turned around in town and had to regroup to find a parking lot that took a credit card.  I found a lot but accidentally almost pulled out in front of someone!  My car wasn’t happy with me.

The tour of the factory was amazing!  I’ve always liked glass blowing but this is next level!  Oh, I forgot to mention, after I parked, a woman approached me and gave me her parking ticket that still had over two hours on it!  The Irish are so incredible!  The tour guide’s name was Mary (for sure) and she was fabulous.  I ended up staying a little over an hour there but sadly didn’t leave with any crystal.

I searched out a gift shop to get my obligatory magnet and asked the shop girl if she thought I had enough time to run to Cashel before going to Cobh.  By this time, it was almost 1pm.After some thought, she said if I didn’t go, I would regret it.  So I went and I was so happy I did.

A note about my car.  I’ve named him Pierre and am convinced that he thinks I’m an idiot!  He has to remind me when to shift (which is actually nice, even though at times I disagreed with him), as well as nudge me when I wander in my lane,  Best of all, I’m able to link my phone into his navigation system, so no more looking at a tiny screen when I’m driving.

The drive to Cashel was nice and the scenery was breathtaking.  I’m so glad I got a car and am going on back roads, even though most roads are narrow and the speed limit is high!  It’s so crazy to see a ruin in the middle of a field.  They seem to say, ‘Don’t mind me, I’m just a 900 year old ruin in a field.  Carry on!’

Cashel was AMAZING!  I’m so glad I decided to go.  David was the tour guide and was fabulous.  The Rock of Cashel was the seat of the kings of Munster.  According to legend, St Patrick came to the Rock of Cashel to convert King Aenghus to Christianity.  Brian Boru was crowned High King at Cashel in 978 and made it his capital.  In 1101, the Rock of Cashel was given to the Church.

It’s well past midnight so even though I have lots more to report, I should go to bed.

A black and white photo of the Rock of Cashel

(Privately shared on November 4, 2022 with a select group of friends). The above is a photo of Cobh Cathedral at sunset. More photos can be found here.

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original journal. Underlined words are edits for clarification within the original journal.  I’m also adding new notes in my journal as I share it, mostly historical information of the things I’ve seen and researched upon my return and random thoughts.  This will be represented in regular type.  

15 September ~ Cobh (morning)

Next to the Rock of Cashel was Hore Abbey.  Hore Abbey is a ruined Cistercian monastery built in 1272. I had heard that it was possible to walk to it from the Rock of Cashel and found a path, but near the end of the path was a gate and I didn’t even try to see if it was unlocked – so I turned around and walked back to the gift shop to get a magnet.  I hadn’t really investigated getting to Hore Abbey before I got to the Rock of Cashel, and the path I found seemed to be taking me away from the Abbey and onto private property.  I asked the shop girl about the Abbey and she said if I wanted to walk to it, just go back the way I came.  I mentioned the gate I saw and she looked at me like I was an idiot and said to go through it! Because it was after 4.00 already, I decided to drive there.  Once I got there, though, I realized there was no place to park so I double backed and parked at a nearby campground.  I walked to the entrance (and should have gotten a picture of the road), and saw that the Abbey was on private property – a farm.  In the end, I just took photos of it from afar.  By the time I left, it was 430p and I had a two hour drive ahead of me.  Still, I’m so glad I stopped at the Rock of Cashel.

The drive to Cobh was mostly uneventful, aside from being honked at once.  I did experience my first ‘Seriously, I’m a two lane road! I can’t help it if I look like an alley!’ situation.  However, when the other car approached there was a spot for me to pull over to let it pass.  I suspect when I drive to Goleen later today I’ll see much of that. (Drivers pulling over to let others pass). Driving in Ireland is 97% fine, 2% confusing, especially at double roundabouts and 5% white knuckle anxiety!

I got to Cobh at 6.30p – later that I originally intended.  And again, during the drive I saw great beauty, including a small castle with a gold tree on top!  That castle is called Belvelly Castle and is located in County Cork, near Cobh.  I came upon it very suddenly – I turned a corner and there it was.  But because I was anxious to get settled at my bed and breakfast, I didn’t stop to get a photo of it.

My hostess, Mary, wasn’t available to check me inbut (her husband?) Michael got me sorted.  I asked about dinner as I hadn’t eaten since my huge Irish Breakfast.  He said most places usually close at 7.00p!  But he thought I could still find something.  I decided to just go out and then get my bags from the car later, but Michael was very chatty.  I finally left the bed and breakfast at 6.45p but by the time I got to the restaurant he had recommended, it had stopped serving dinner.  Can you imagine?

Cobh is on the sea and is home to the final port of call of the Titanic.  Many victims of the Lusitania are buried here and the town is simply beautiful.  There is a huge Catholic Cathedral (St Colman’s) that I wanted to shoot so I climbed up the hill and was glad for the exercise.  The cathedral was open so I snuck in to say prayers and to light a candle for Charlie.  I didn’t feel comfortable shooting inside it without permissionbut it was simply gorgeous.  When I left, I felt like a good Catholic visiting all these cathedrals and saying prayers, and thought of Grandpa Bene.  He was with me, I know.

Afterwards, I walked back down the hill and ended up at my place – Kelly’s Bar.

Kelly’s Bar is what I would call a typical bar in Ireland.  It had a bright red front with gold lettering, a Guinness sign and seating outside.  The weather was mild so I got myself a pint of Murphys and sat outside. (This croissant is divine, and the raspberry jam is delightful!) (I typically wrote of my adventures in my journal the following morning).  Anyway, soon after, a man sat down near me but close enough that we could talk.  We struck up a conversation and soon I learned his name was Nigel and he’s an Irishman living in England but visiting his brother.  He’s an EMT.  We shared a couple of pints and I switched from Murphys to cider and then to water.  We had moved inside as there was the promise of live music at 9pm and just talked and talked and talked.  The ‘music’ turned out to be a guy playing countrycovers – something I would see in Nashville!  I was disappointed because not only was it covers but it was a mediocre musician playing covers!

I realized it was quite late and I still hadn’t unpacked my car.  Nigel wanted me to stay but I politely declined.  He then suggested we go back to his place!  When he saw my hesitation, he promised he would be a gentleman (but I knew he wouldn’t be) and that we would only talk (a likely story) and he told me to take a chance.  I was flattered but declined and I’m sure he thinks I’m a coward and a prude.  Still, it was nice to be told I was beautiful and that I had the most beautiful eyes he had seen.

Before,  he asked me something peculiar.  He asked how I could look so happy and yet so sad at the same time.  This will stay with me for awhile.

I got back to the bed and breakfast around midnight and sent a quick email to Dad and Bob saying I had arrived.  After a shower I climbed into bed, having set the alarm for 6.30a

I forgot to pack my comb!  But I use it so seldomly I guess it isn’t a surprise.  Still, my hair is quite a mess.

I did not sleep well at all during the night, not because of discomfort but because of bad dreams.  I had a dream of being abducted and even cried out during the night.  Then another bad dream about being stalked.  Charlie was in them both in the backgroud.  I’m sure my subconcious mind was thinking of my time with Nigel and his indecent proposal.

The place I’m staying at is quite nice and across from the sea.  The building is in a quad, originally built for the British and is 100 years old.  It served as the Garda (police station).  I’m actually staying in a – oh the church bells are tolling! It just turned 9am and they chimed nine times and is now chiming a hymn! It’s lovely!  Anway, I’m staying in a private cottage separted from the house. There is a lovely courtyard (where I am now) separating my cottage and the house.  I’m sitting out here enjoying two freshly baked croissants, raspberry jam and coffee.  The inside of my cottage is very modern with a walk in shower and a kitchenette.  This would be the perfect place to stay for a few nights and I’m sad I’m just here for one night.  I stayed at the West Beach House in Cobh.  There is a giant brown spider on my jacket!  Go away!

Today I’m heading to Jameson Distillery and then to Cork and hopefully Kinsale before heading to Mitzen View.  It’s a beautiful day.

15 September, Mitzen Head(evening)

I contributed to the Irish economy today!  I went to the Jameson distillery tour and was almost late because parking was so fierce.  Luckily, I made it and had only missed the video introduction of the tour.  The tour was very similar to the Jack Daniels tour in Lynchburg, but Jameson is much smoother than Jack.  I got the Jamesom and Ginger with lime as my complementary drink and I loved it.  I bough myeslf an oversided Jameson hoodie, a magnet and REDACTED FOR SEVERAL LINES I’m not sure if I’ll need to purchase a larger piece of luggage or not.  If I wear lots of layers and shove everything into my two cases I might be OK.  But I still have another week of shopping!  Oop, I just remembered I’m going to get a bathrobe frm the castle.  I’ll need another suitcase after all.

After the tour I stopped at a grocery store and picked up bread, butter, jam, peanut butter and breakfast bars for my stay in Goleen.  When I got there, they had most of that stuff from other guests!  Oh well, at least I’ll have it for running around.  The bread it really good.  It’s the same white bread I had in Dublin.

I didn’t know if I would have enough time to explore Cork properly so I just went to Kinsale, but didn’t really explore it either.  I got fish and chips from a food truck and it was so so good.  When I finished, I fed the waiting (begging?) seagulls the rest of my chips and it reminded me of the time Chuck and I went to the Outer Banks and I fed them there.  I really miss him.

Oh, I didn’t realize Jameson uses American barrels for their barrels.  They get half of them from Kentucky and the other half from Spain.  The Kentucky ones had bourbon and the Spanish ones port.  They use both barrels then blend the mixture together.

After lunch I headed to Goleen – about a two hour drive.  i’m getting more and more used to driving here.  And I discovered that Pierre also has a lane assistance view on the dashboard which is handy on narrow lanes.  I also discovered if I line up a sticker inside the car with the white line in the road, I’m good.  Speaking of narrow lanes, let me take a picture.

The drive to Goleen again was stunningly beautiful.

I can’t believe I forgot about the cemetary!  Before the Jameson tour, I was talking with Mary as I checked out and mentioned the old cemetary that I had seen signs for.  She said it was beautiful and I should try to get there before the tour.  Because I had such a late night last night, and a somewhat early morning without a restful sleep, I lingered over her croissants and jam.  My tour was scheduled for 11am and I had to move my car by 10am and the distance from Cobh to Jameson was about 30 minutes.  I got to the cemetary but only allowed myself 15 minutues, knowing it would turn into 20 minutues, to explore.  The grounds were beautiful and some of the headstones were amazingly detailed and ornate.  There were three mass graves for the victims of the Lusitania and the village had commissioned three glass headstones with the known named victims.  It was so beautiful and peaceful.

My place in Goleen is called Mitzen Place and is paradise itself.  I got here around 5.30p and am now on the patio writing this entry.  I bought two cans of beer from their supply for myself – one for tonight and one for tomorrow.  It’s Hop House 13 Lager and is very good.

I’m listening to Battlestar Galactia music and watching the sun set.  There is a soft breeze so I have on my new hoodie.  I can hear the cows mooing and the birds singing (there are a lot of black crows here).  I am content.  This tripis well worth the money, sacrifice, tears and sweatit took to get here.  I hope I can hold onto ths feeling forever.

An annoyance occurred in Cashel.  After I got my magnet, I wanted to run to the toilet before heading to Cobh.  There was a simple minded older woman just standing in front of the damn door!  I said ‘excuse me’ and must have scared her because she jumped, which made me drop my wallet and phone.  The screen is cracked but thankfully the phone still works.  How dumb!

After I went inside I made myself a peanut butter and jam sammie and listened to my lesson, then audiobook.  The booking head advertised access to a wash machine but when I inquired about it, I was given less than enthusiastic permission to use it, a reminder that most people do laundry when they get home, and a lecture about the high cost of utilities.  (The hostess is German).  Even though I had planned on doing some laundry, I really only needed to clean undies and my black pants.  I decided to do them in the sink instead.  When I was washing up, I looked outside and gasped at the stars.  I have never seen stars like that before.  

I just got back from being outside for a moment (I think I scared my hosts as the motion light turned on).  I sat underneath the stars and just marveled at their beauty and the clarity of the night.  There was no noise – no airiplanes or helicopters, no music or traffic, just beauty.  I could see a ship on the ocean and saw bats flying around.  It was amazing.  And then I went to bed and realized there was a skylight above me allowing me to continue to gaze at the stars.  And I was at peace.

(Privately shared on November 13, 2022 with a select group of friends). The photo above is Chuck’s cross that I left at Dunlough Castle. More photos can be found here.

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original journal. Underlined words are edits for clarification within the original journal.  I’m also adding new notes in my journal as I share it, mostly historical information of the things I’ve seen and researched upon my return and random thoughts.  This will be represented in regular type.  

Correction:  Last chapter I referred to my rental as Mitzen View.  It is actually called Mizen View.

16 September ~ Mizen View

Up at 7ish to a beautiful serene morning.  Breakfast was toast x2 and lukewarm coffee.  But coffee of any temperature is still good.

The plan for today is to make a picnic and just go!  Can’t wait!

One of the reasons I wanted to come to Ireland was so that I could finally say goodbye to Chuck.  I planned on leaving his cross, my ring with his ashes and some of his ashes here.  

I’m on the coast, near Dunlough Castle.  I found a quiet place – a cove that might be good for Chuck but I asked him to show me a Charlie Rock of where he wants to be.  It is so serene and beautiful here.  He showed me two Charlie Rocks!  (A Charlie Rock is a stone with a white band around it, or a stone shaped like a heart.  I’ve been collecting them since his death in late 2017).  I decided to leave his cross at the castle and leave the ring closer to the sea.  I wrote him a letter and wedged it between the stones of the wall, and I hung the cross as securely as I could on the wall.  I know with time the elements will corrode the necklace but I hope the cross stays there forever.  I picked the side that isn’t facing the wind so hopefully it’ll hang for a long time, being protected from the elements.  The ring I placed in the nearby cove and wedged it tightly amongst the rocks.  I know Mother Ocean will eventually take what she wants, but hopefully it’ll stay there for a long time.  I then climbed back up the hill and blew bubbles and watched the wind carry them away.  Of course I cried when I was doing this but I feel good.  I will always love him.

16 September ~ Mizen Head

Again, so beautiful!  I ran into two Irishmen, Pat and Kiran, and they planned out my next trip for tomorrow.  They also said I did a great job planning my itinerary by myself.  Irish stamp of approval!

Durrus – Lunch at O’Sulleubhain’s Bar.  A half pint of Red Lager as I’m driving and a club sandwich.

16 September ~ Home Base (Mizen View)

After lunch I debated going to Bantry or just going back to the house.  In the end, I decided to go to Bantry and I”m glad I did.  Most shops were closed but it was still very pretty.

I picked up a bottle of wine.  Life is good again!

Back at the house I uploaded some cell phone photos to Facebook.  I’m exhausted as today was an emotional day but I am happy and content.

I forgot to mention Mizen Head.  So peaceful, and meeting Pat and Kiran was just a bonus.  I forgot to grab my regular cell phone so I don’t have a step counter but I know it was a lot.  Also, I climbed 100 steps up a steep incline.  I didn’t find a magnet at Mizen Head but I did get a key chain that I can turn into a magnet.  And as a bonus, it’s green!

It was so nice talking to Pat and Kiran.  I’m so glad they approve of my itinerary.  They were lovely to talk to and Kiran even drew a map for tomorrow’s excursion.

I’m getting more comfortable with driving and I think even Pierre would say I’m not getting worse!  I’m comfortable on wider lanes and am exhilarated down shifting and drifting the curves as long as I can see ahead. (Pierre doesn’t approve!). As far as one lane but really two lane roads, I found if someone is ahead of me, I’m good, because they will alert me if a car is coming in the opposite direction.  I was following some Britons and at one point I clocked going 72 km on a skinny lane!

Dunlough Fort was so special for obvious reasons.  The hike was well worth the effort but I missed my walking stick.  I don’t think Dad and Betsy could do it.

Off to bed.

Photo of Chuck’s cross hanging on the Castle wall.

(Privately shared on December 4, 2022 with a select group of friends). The photo above is of my new Cross. More photos can be found here.

It’s been several weeks since my last Irish Adventure chapter, but this is a busy time of year.  Not only have I been working on photos, but I’m reinventing myself, or at least my website, as Kelly the Brave.  It’s a work in progress, but one I am enjoying.

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original journal. Underlined words are edits for clarification within the original journal.  I’m also adding new notes in my journal as I share it, mostly historical information of the things I’ve seen and researched upon my return and random thoughts.  This will be represented in regular type.  

Today’s entry is a little disjointed because I wrote it in three parts throughout the day.  There is some backtracking of thoughts.

17 September

I don’t know exactly where I am but I’ll ask Google later. I  do know that I’m in a reserve park and just hiked 3.5 miles.  Now, I’m sitting on a bench near a waterfall, thinking of Dad and Betsy.  The hike was beautiful but strenuous at times.  Again, I don’t think they would have made it but I carried them with me in my heart.  I could hear Betsy naming off the plants and flowers while Dad and I took photos.  This place is stunningly beautiful (the phrase of the week!) and the weather is perfect but I’ve only met 3 people on my hike.  I’ve been here for two hours and it was time well spent.  I should move on but I’m going to stay on my bench for a few more moments and drink it all in.

One of the things I’ve realized is that there is no way I’ll be able to photograph everything that takes my breath away.  So I’m going to clean out some mind space and remove doubt, fear and worry and hope my brain can remember all the beautiful things I’ve seen.

I haven’t seen any squirrels or chipmunks!  They must all be at Dad’s house.

Lunchtime ~ Castletown Bearhaven

The red ale I so enjoyed yesterday is Smithwick’s Red Ale.  I’m at O’Donoghue’s Pub for lunch and ordered a full pint.  It is very smooth.

I’m enjoying myself immensely.  It’s quite nice to just go without a firm agenda.  I’m sure I’m missing a lot of beautiful things but I’m happy.  The weather this weekend has been absolutely gorgeous and the drives have been very pleasant.  I’m glad I got a photo of the rocky landscape. It’s so barren yet beautiful.  As I was driving, I saw a sheep on top of a rock!

I’m not sure what my next stop will be.  I saw that there is a stone circle near here which would be cool to see, but I’d like to get back home before the sun sets.  Yesterday, sunset was at 7.51p. I don’t know if I want to go on to Kenmare or explore the stone circle.  Obviously, I can’t see everything but I don’t want to rush to things and try to cram everything in in order to see things, if that makes sense.  I’d much rather continue on forging my own path and experiencing things my own way.  Enjoy my own way and path and have no regrets.

The nature reserve was Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve.

After leaving the Glengarriff WoodsNature Reserve, I drove to Castleown Bearhaven about 35 minutes away.  I parked and soon was talking with a man I’d later learn was named Finn.  There was a local map posted and he was showing me areas of interest, including a nearby stone circle.  First, however, was lunch. 

The pub I wanted to eat at, McCarthy’s Bar, wasn’t serving food anymore at that time of day so I went next door to O’Donoghue’s.  There I ordered a Smithwick’s Red Ale and fish and chips.  For the life of me, I can’t remember what the menu called it, because I had to ask for clarification, but it was fish and chips, just called something else.  As it was a beautiful day, I sat outside. The beer was better than the food.  While I was eating, Finn came to sit with me and we started talking some more (that’s when he told me his name).  He’s Australian but used to live in the area and is on leave from work (he works in mental health).  He asked if I was going to go to the Circle and when I was yes he said he would come with!  Because the Circle was close by I agreed and off we went.  The Circle was beautiful but I didn’t really appreciate the history as I was focused on shooting it.  We stayed there for about 15 to 20 minutes then I dropped him off at the foot of a hill and we went our separate ways.  I’m not in the habit of picking up strangers and potentially putting myself in danger, but there was something comforting about Finn.  I regret not getting his photograph.  While we were at the circle, there were three Americans there as well, from Washington and Oregon.  Most of the Americans I met in Ireland were coincidentally from either Washington State or Oregon!

Finn had also told me about a Buddhist retreat that wasn’t too far away so I decided to check it out.  Again, stunning views met me and there was even a cat!  The stone circle was Derreenataggart Stone Circle and the Buddhist place was Dzogchen Beara.

After that I was deciding if I should head back or continue on.  Pat and Kiran mentioned Healy Pass as a must see, but I had past the road leading to it on the way to Castletown Beara.  My only course would be to make a big circle around the peninsula then come down Healy Pass.  I hate backtracking! So I jumped into the car and followed R572, then R575 then R571 then onto Healy Pass.  The drive was stunning and the landscape was something that I had never seen before.  R575 was a very narrow two lane road but I eventually got behind a native who served as my pace car.  No issues though a few tight squeezes.  Healy Pass was beyond worth the miles.  It was nothing like I’ve ever seen or driven.  Again, super narrow roads, high in the mountains, no guard rails, sheep everywhere.  So so glad I did it.

I put a lot of miles on myself and Pierre today but it was worth it.  I wouldn’t have seen everything had I gone on a tour or even not talked to locals.  This has been an amazing experience and my soul is happy.

Mizen View had a lot of brochures of things to do in the area, but the choices were almost overwhelming.  I wanted to just explore the area on my own, without research or an agenda.  After a few days in Ireland, I realized this trip was actually a recon trip for a future Adventure.  I can’t wait to return.  County Cork is so beautiful.

18 September ~ Mizen View

This is my last morning here in paradise.  I do hope I can come back and stay longer.  Everything is so peaceful and I’ve enjoyed every single moment, especially seeing the stars when I go to bed.  I’ve been blessed with amazing weather.

I’m taking the scenic way to Limerick, going up N71 to Killarney then to Limerick.  I might stop at a sports store to get a duffel bag for my trip home.  My destination was actually Bunratty, which is outside of Limerick.

I have to go inside to get ready but it was so wonderful to have my devotion and coffee on the patio.  If only Elliot and Eleanor were with me!

I left Mizen View around 10.30a.  It was a beautiful day but I was sad that my time at Mizen View came to an end, but I hope to visit again.  At the very least, I want to emulate the feelings I’ve experienced there at my own home (meaning the simplicity and respect for the environment).  I love the home I made for myself but suspect it’s getting cluttered.  I should do inventory when I get home.  I think after placing Chuck’s cross and ring I have the urge to purge.  No his stuff per se but the things I’ve collected in the four years I’ve been there.  If I don’t use it, I shouldn’t hold onto it.  

I took the long way to Bunratty – going on N71, the mountain pass Kiran mentioned.  It reminded me of driving in the mountains of NC but the landscape was much more rocky.  The drive itself was exhilarating and I stopped at a little place in the middle of the pass – a gift shop of sorts (I forget the name). It was Molly Gallivans.  There, I bought a scarf for Cynthia, two Lucky Irish black cats for Marcia and Shannon, some wool socks for either Justin or myself and a very cool rain hat that goes well with my Barbour jacket.

Even though I managed to stuff everything into my two carry-ons, I still thought I would feel better ifI had a duffel bag that I could fill with dirty laundry and throw into the belly of an airplane.  I’d done some research the night before and found a sports store that sold duffel bags.  The closest one was in Killarney which I would be passing through.

Killarney was a beautiful village and is well worth a future trip, but I was on a mission and couldn’t be a tourist.  After I found the sports store, I had to find parking and ended up parking about five blocks away.  I didn’t mind the walk as I was in the car all day.  Once inside the sports store I found a duffel that would suit my needs, and it even has wheels!  I paid and then decided to walk a different way back to the car in order to see more of the village.  I stopped at a convenience store and bought some girly things and a comb and a large bottle of water.

Ireland doesn’t offer bags in the grocery or convenience stores and my extra bag was in my Bento Bag and the purple bag was in the car with the rest of my snacks and sandwiches.  Luckily, I was able to throw most everything in my crossbody bad but had to carry the water, along with the duffel bag.  I then headed back to the car but my eye kept spying jewelry stores.

One of the things I wanted to get while in Ireland was a cross necklace for myself.  My original cross that Grandma Bene bought me when I turned 16, is lost.  I suspect Chuck pawned it but that might be an unjust accusation.  After his deathI had been wearing his cross until I left it at Dunlough Fort.  But I didn’t want to get a cross just to get a cross – I wanted it to find me.  So in Killarney, dragging my camera, my water and a duffel bag, I visited several stores.

I wanted to get a gold cross but gold is so expensive.  Still, I searched and eventually came across a jewelry store that called me in.  I was also looking for something with the classic Celtic symbol of swirls (the Triskele) like the swirls in my logo but then I saw what would become my cross.  It’s sterile silver and a classic Celtic cross but the center has an 18k gold circle.  The cross is engraved in traditional Celtic design and the back is flat.  I love it and am so glad I got it for myself.  I definitely helped the Irish economy today!

Speaking of the Irish economy, I don’t think I was charged for my Jameson hoodie.  Still, I’m not driving back to Midleton to correct the mistake!

As I was driving to Bunratty, I was wondering if I was short changing myself by not actually enjoying the destinations I’m visiting.  For instance, Bunratty Castle was closed when I got here and I’ll probably head to Lighthouse Loop as soon as I can tomorrow.  But this trip really is about seeing Ireland which I have.  I’m probably over thinking again.  When I get back to my room I’ll map out tomorrow’s agenda.  Perhaps I can at least go to the Bunratty Castlegift shop.  (I did not).

Tomorrow is more exploration, then staying the night in Doolin.  Then the castle, then Dublin then home.  It’s crazy how fast the time has flown.

Right now I’m sitting in a booth at the restaurant next to my B&B.  I ordered a Red Ale (not Smithwicks) (McGargles Red) and decided against a proper dinner and treated myself to dessert.  I chose the Toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream.  Aside from Mary’s croissants and the fish and chips from the food truck in Kinsale, I haven’t been overly impressed with the food.  I hope dinner at the castle doesn’t disappoint.  (Upon reflection, the chicken tenders in Dublin, Bridget’s Irish breakfast and Ann McDonald’s lasagna were quite nice).  The toffee pudding was dry with burnt edges.

(Privately shared on December 29, 2022 with a select group of friends). The above photo is of local musicians playing traditional Irish Music at McGann’s Pub in Doolin, Ireland. Additional photos can be found here.

Again, several weeks have passed since I’ve shared my last chapter.  My story is coming to an end and I’m glad I’m sharing it with you.As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original journal. Underlined words are edits for clarification within the original journal.  I’m also adding new notes in my journal as I share it, mostly historical information of the things I’ve seen and researched upon my return and random thoughts.  This will be represented in regular type.  

19 September ~ Loop Head Lighthouse

I had a lovely Irish breakfast at the B&B before heading to Loop Head Lighthouse.  I probably won’t need lunch. I’m also collecting brochures for Jordan and his wife as they are planning an Irish Adventure of their own in 2023 (he’s a thousand miles away so I think I can safely call him Jordan and not Dr Hill!)

I’m so glad I came here.  It’s quite lovely and peaceful and I’d like to leave Charlie’s ashes here.  Chuck and I loved to visit lighthouses along the coast of North Carolina so scattering his ashes here seems appropriate and something he would approve of.  Right now I’m sitting at the very edge of the point but I’m not sure if this is ‘the’ spot or not.  It might be too barren even for him!  Bubbles don’t fly very well due to the ocean breeze (that’s my new thing ~ blowing bubbles).  I think I’ll move on.  I was sitting below the famous Eire 45 stone sign at Loop Head, facing west towards Canada and America.  As I was writing in my journal I heard a whale breach but didn’t see it, only the bubbles on the surface of the water.  Stupid journal.

I found a scary but pretty place right on the cliffs but moved on as a fear for falling was setting in. Then I found the perfect place – below the lighthouse and adjacent to another cliff formation.  I scattered Charlie’s ashes and blew bubbles.  The bubbles blew freely and danced in the wind and out to sea.  I feel happy, fearless and brave.  But most of all, free.

I’m somewhere else now (Google will tell me later), not far from the lighthouse.  Again, serene beauty surrounds me.  (I’m at Derrynadivva Bay Beach).

I next drove to Kilkee Cliffs but didn’t stay long.  It was getting late and I wanted to get to Doolin and decide if I wanted to visit the Cliffs of Moher.  When I was initially planning this trip, I definitely wanted to visit the Cliffs of Moher but now that I’m here I’m pretty indifferent about it.  I hoped for clarity when I arrived.  

I checked into my place in Doolin around 4pm.  By the time I got settled and brough everything up from the car it was about 4.30 with a 7.40 sunset.  I decided to walk into the village and enjoyed the walk.  My bed and breakfast was about a 30 min walk into the village. I was still indifferent about the Cliffs but decided to go on the Cliffs of Moher Walking Trailto see where it took me.  The walk was very pretty and scary at some points as the path had no handrails or guards.  On the way, two couples caught up with me and I ended up joining them.  I forget their names except for Chris and Hannah.  We walked until 6.30p then turned back to walk to townwithout properly visiting the Cliffs.  I got some shots of Moo Moos and Lamb Lambs.

During my drives I must have hit something in Pierre to disable the car radio, and Spotify doesn’t work!  So to amuse myself when I’m driving, I call out Moo Moos and Lamb Lambs whenever I see cows and sheep.  I also sing to myself and if I find myself speeding, I’ll sing a Slow Down Song.  I’m sure Pierre hates me!

Anyway, when we got into town, we parted company.  I walked on closer to the B&B and ended up in McGann’s Pub.  It is everything a pub should be!  I ordered my Smithwicks and an Irish Stew.  The stew was AMAZING and everything an Irish Stew should be.  It was so good.  

I’ve walked 8.5 miles so far today and am on my 2nd Smithwicks.  I think music is going to start soon and I might stay.  We’ll see.  I was sitting near an American couple from Oregon.  Or Washington State, I don’t remember.  Anyway, we talked about the non traditional pub music we’ve encountered were country music covers and a lot of John Denver songs.  Also, every American I met on my trip was either from Oregon or Washington State!

The music is traditional!  Fiddle and accordion!  I’m staying!

My final walking distance was 9.2 miles!  Kelly the Strong!

(Privately shared on January 15, 2023 with a select group of friends). The photo above is a Silly Selfie of me at Castle Lough Rynn, Ireland. More photos can be found here.

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original journal. Underlined words are edits for clarification within the original journal.  I’m also adding new notes in my journal as I share it, mostly historical information of the things I’ve seen and researched upon my return and random thoughts.  This will be represented in regular type.  

20 September 2022 ~ Lough Rynn Castle

My stay in Doolin was nice.  I’m glad I finally experienced a proper Irish Pub with traditional music and the food and drink was delicious.  Aran View Hotel (?B&B) was nice but the bed was rock hard!  Mercifully I was able to sleep but I was sore when I woke up this morning.  I’m sure most of the soreness was from the walking but the hard bed didn’t help!  (The bed in Bunratty was divine!)

Breakfast was scrambled eggs and smoked salmon, an Irish scone with butter, two croissants almost as good as Mary’s and fruit with yogurt.  I took my time leaving Doolin and stopped in the village on the way out to get some souvenirs for my friends and a proper Irish sweater like I had many years ago.  This time, I opted against the traditional cream color and bought a slightly darker cream color with colorful specks in it.

I drove for the last time on the Wild Atlantic Way up the Black Head Lighthouse and again immensely enjoyed the drive.  A pit stop at a hardware store for duct tape then I arrived at Lough Rynn Castle around 2.30p.

I haven’t checked in yet but walked around the grounds a bit.  The day is overcast but dry and I’m wearing my new hat.  I’ll probably check in  in a few minutes.

During my drive up here I asked myself what I had hoped to achieve on this trip.  It wasn’t designed for photography or tourist experiences – it was more to find myself while seeing Ireland from a different point of view.  I feel peaceful and strong, and in some ways free.  I couldn’t possibly photograph every stunning scene I came across but I’ve enjoyed my time and hope my squirrel brain can recall all the beauty that I’ve seen.

Speaking of squirrels, I finally saw one!  And it was a red squirrel!

I’m scheduled for dinner at 7pm and have 50 minutes to get ready.

My room is literally fit for a queen. I just jumped out of the shower and after dinner I’m going to take a bubble bath.

I walked to the walled garden and sat for a while, blowing bubbles (did I mention that I really like to blow bubbles?). I didn’t take too many photographs and realized this trip again wasn’t for photography or tourism, it’s for rediscovery and growing into Kelly Adams.  It’s a very liberating thought.

I saw a cat here!  If I don’t remarry (or maybe even if I do) I want a home in the country and adopt all the surrendered cats and let them live the rest of their lives with me.

Dinner at the Sandstone.  

Dinner was a prix fixe five course meal.  The setting is beautiful with sandstone walls, a beautifully carved fireplace and a huge chandelier in a skylight, and stained glass windows.  I chose foie gras as my appetizer and a glass of Merlot.  (I try to be mindful of animals and almost didn’t get the foie gras because of the cruelty, but geese are mean!  Plus, if Chuck was with me, he would get it!). The wine was good and the foie gras was divine, but as I was eating it, a wave of sadness and loneliness overcame me and to my horror I started crying!  So much for Kelly the Brave and Kelly the Strong!  There was a couple sitting directly across from me and a lovely lady invited me to join them for dinner.  Her husband beckoned me to join as well.  They were ahead of me, course wise, but made me feel so welcomed and wanted.  I hate that I forgot their names!  Anyway, they were celebrating their 23rd anniversary and live in Northern Ireland.  I had a wonderful time with them.  (My main course was Irish beef with mashed potatoes and steamed broccoli (the fancy kind) and steamed parsnips).  There was a spoonful of raspberry sorbet before the main course.  Dessert was creme brulee that was so unbelievably smooth. Coffee followed.  It was a magical dinner and my Irish friends will be in my heart forever.

After dinner, I wanted to take a bath.  The bathroom in my suite is very airy with a deep bathtub.  I got out of my clothes and into the bathrobe and went to draw a bath but saw there wasn’t a stopper! (The bathtub also had a huge rain shower head and had the telephone handle thing as part of the bath).  I called the front desk and they apologized for the missing stopper and promised to send up a stopper.  After a few moments a stopper was delivered but it didn’t fit!  I called down again and the house manager came up to see what the problem was.  She confirmed that the stopper didn’t fit and was in a bit of a panic as housekeeping was gone for the evening and there wasn’t an alternative.  She went to look in a closet for something but came back empty handed.  We tried to think of a way to stop it without a stopper and she said something like ‘if only we had tape.’  I suddenly remembered that I had duct tape and to my amusement, we managed to stop up the bath with several strips of tape!  The manager sent up a glass of white wine and I had a luxurious hot bubble bath, with a duct tape stopper!

My bed is fit for a Queen.  Eleanor would be so envious!  It’s a King size (I think) with four posters and a canopy.  There are many pillows and velvet covered decorative pillows – something I may need to add to my own bed.  The covers were heavy and not too hot.

21 September 2022 ~ Castle Lough Rynn

It’s so sad that today is my last day in Ireland (tomorrow doesn’t count).  I just had a lovely Irish breakfast in the Sandstone and am stuffed!  The orange juice was so amazing and super fresh (it was  made from Spanish oranges!). I’ve had three glasses.  Check out is at noon and I intend to stay here as long as I can.  I want to take a nice shower before hitting the road.  I also need to transfer photos from my Irish phone to Google Drive.  And I need to drop off the car at the airport with a full tank by 5pm.  I’m trying to decide if I want to go to Kells as originally intended or if I should go to Bru na Boinne.  Decisions, decisions.

Upon researching Bru na Boinne I discovered that tickets were required and unavailable.  Guess I have to come back!

I went back to my room after breakfast and took a shower and packed up.  I also decided to treat the couple I had dinner with by paying for their dinner.  I made them a note and asked if we could keep in touch and said how much I enjoyed myself last night. 

I packed up the car then went back inside to see the front sitting area and the bar area.  The sitting area was gorgeous.  There was a fireplace and a baby grand piano and lots of sitting nooks.  I think they serve tea there as well.  The bar was nice, too.  I then officially checked out and found a note and contact information from my new friends, Annas and Paul Black.  I was so happy.  Then when I walked out, there they were!  We got one more hug and then some photos together (thanks Colm!). It was the perfect ending to a magical stay.

Since I couldn’t go to Bru na Boinne I headed to Kells.  Unfortunately, it was disappointing besides seeing the tower.  I thought there would be more to see.  I then headed to the Hill of Tara.  It was pretty cool but in the end, I was like, ‘yeah there’s a centuries old rock in the middle of a field.  Cool!’  In my defense for being so unimpressed and unprepared for both Kells and the Hill of Tara, I was tired.  I didn’t properly research either destination and just drove to both of them.  Kells does indeed have a nice visitors center explaining the history and even has a replica of the Book of Kells.  But I just drove to the Tower which was fine.  The Hill of Tara was more impressive than my journal entry and I would love to return to it next time I’m in Ireland.  I think spending the day there and at Bru na Boinne, which is another prehistoric site, would make an amazing day.

I had to refill Pierre before I dropped him off and headed to Dublin.  Getting to the car return place was nerve wracking!  There was all sorts of merging and roundabouts and construction at the airport.  But I finally found it and said goodbye to Pierre.  He was a good car and one of the nicest ones I’ve driven.

I finally made it to the airport hotel and uploaded some more photos.  I need to recalibrate my luggage then it’s off to bed.  Tomorrow I’ll be heading home.

I’m so glad I was able to make this trip.  It was well deserved and life changing.  I hope I can return sooner rather than later.

Thank you, Father, for the wonderful trip.