Tag: Northern Ireland

Like my other travel journal, An Irish Adventure, I wrote this for a select group of friends and family to share my adventure. Now I want to share it with everyone.

A note about the format of this travel journal. I’ve shared the original dates in the body of each journal entry. In order to make the journal chronological, I had ‘fudge’ the dates of the bottom of each post. Please ignore them.

The photo above is a boat at rest in the Dublin Port. More photos of A Northern Path can be found here.

I hope you enjoy A Northern Path – An Irish Adventure Continues.

Kelly

(Privately shared on October 3, 2023 with a select group of friends). More photos can be found here.

Hi Friends ~

I can’t believe it’s been eleven days since I’ve returned from my Irish Adventure!  As you may know, I really had a difficult time deciding if I should return to Ireland in 2023, mainly due to finances, but I’m so glad I didn’t put it off.  This year has given me so many reminders about how short life is and how important it is to take advantage of opportunities as they present themselves.  I knew if I didn’t return this year, I would regret it.  I promised Elliot and Eleanor that their extravagant lifestyle will not be interrupted, but I may be feasting on Ramen noodles and PB&J sammies for the rest of the year and well into 2024!  Still, I wouldn’t trade my experiences or the opportunity to travel for anything.

Last year, I shared my travel journal and photography from my Irish Adventure and I plan on doing the same this year.  I have about 2000 photos to go through between my camera and my phones and started editing them.  I hope to share a chapter of my travels and photos once a week so be on the lookout.  I’m calling this year’s adventure A Northern Path – An Irish Adventure Continues.

Once again, I planned this trip all on my own.  I made a few adjustments from last year’s trip and felt more confident traveling alone this year.  I flew Delta again and rented a car.  This year I stayed in hotels and Bed and Breakfasts, and TWO castles!

I’ve attached two maps of my adventures.  The first map helped me plan my itinerary, and the second map is what and where I actually visited.   For some reason, I couldn’t map out my road trips, so just imagine me skirting the coastline from Dublin, up to Belfast, then along the coast to Bushmills, then down the northwest coast of Ireland, before cutting across back to Dublin, all on back roads. Between this year and last year’s more Southern route, I’ve covered a lot of ground in Ireland but still feel like there is so much more to see.  And yes, I’m already plotting a return!

Irish Adventure 2023 Itinerary 

The Northern Path

I’ve also included a photo of my new friend, Ewe-anne.  She came home with me and likes to sit by my computer to gently remind me to work on my photos!

Thanks for letting me share my newest adventure with you!  Stay tuned!

~Kelly

(Privately shared on October 15, 2023 with a select group of friends). The above photo is The Beacon of Hope in Belfast, Northern Ireland. More photos can be found here.

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original travel journal. Plain text words are edits for clarification within the original journal or post travel thoughts.

Make sure you check out my photos which can be viewed here. Just be sure to click on ‘A Northern Path ~ An Irish Adventure Continues.  Also, the photos will have more information about  the sights than my travel original journal.  

12 September 2023. Belfast, Northern Ireland

My meditation program also has sleep sounds to help one fall asleep.  (Usually at home I’ll go to sleep with Classical Music or Max Richter in the background).  The meditation program has a forest-scape which is quite nice but last night I decided to try the Ocean-scape sounds.  It worked – I fell asleep but in my semi-conscious state early in the morning I mistook the ‘waves’ as rain.  (It’s rained every day so far, which is fine).  However, when I eventually woke up, I was pleasedto see bright sunshine, blue skies and wispy white clouds.  It’s going to be a beautiful day!

I’m having breakfast now (orange juice, white coffee (like a latte), grain toast with butter, yogurt with granola and fruit, 2 small croissants, two slices of ham and cheddar cheese.  It sounds lie a lot but I will not be eating again until tonight (and really didn’t eat anything yesterday).  After breakfast, I’m going to pick up my gear and head out to explore.  The breakfast was a hybrid of self serve and table servie.  The gaggle of Germans/assembly of Austrians were milling around looking confused about the operation of the coffee machine – a fancy self serve that offered everything from espresso to lattes.  I gave them a wide berth.  They were part of a tour group and I hoped I wouldn’t cross paths with them again.  

It’s a beautiful day and Belfast has won my heart.  It’s everything to me that Dublin isn’t but I can’t even express how.  I didn’t have an agenda other than to show up at the Walking Tour meeting place at 2.30p.  As the Belfast Tour Center was around the corner from the hotel, I stopped in to see what they had and grabbed a Belfast map to go along with the Belfast map I had grabbed from the hotel.  They also had a gift shop and I spied the perfect Belfast magnet for myself and made a mental note to return.  I then just mosyed around.  A lovely couple asked if I needed directions and I said I was just enjoying the day with no agenda and no destination.  They were very kind.  I found myself approaching the river and came across a beautiful sculpture.  Then I walked along the river and spied the Big Fish – a work of art that I had read about.  It was quite breathtaking as it appeared to be constructed of tiles of Belfast’s history.  After taking several photos of the fish, I ventured across the river and found myself walking towards the Titanic Museum.  

In my research of Belfast, a visit to the Titanic Museum was always listed as a Must Do activity.  But to be honest, I only have a passing interest in it and didn’t get a ticket.  Still, it was a beautiful day and the museum itself is lovely so I kept going.  Once there, I went inside and ventured into the gift shop.  I decided to get a Titanic Magnet (why not?) and a little present for [redacted].  However, I ran into a slight annoyance.

Last year when I was planning my trip to Ireland, Bob made me an authorized user for his American Express card (so generous!) and I put Pierre on the card.  I promptly paid my bills and then kept a small recurring expense on the Amex card.  This summer, when I decided to return to Ireland, I again decided to put the car on the Amex card as there was a $2,000 hold during the rental period.  Amex was also offering a ‘spend one hundred pounds in the UK, get twenty bucks back’ promotion that I was eager to take advantage of.  But after a year of putting $10-15 monthly charges on the Amex card, when the car deposit hit, Amex FLIPPED OUT because it wasn’t my normal spending behaviour as an authorized user.  (Chase, on the other hand, is well used to my spending habits!). So when I went to pay for the Titanic magnet and present, the Amex card was declined.  I was able to get it on my Chase card but it was embarrassing having my card declined.   Thankfully, everything got worked out but American Express knew I was going to be in the UK and they even knew I was putting the car on my card!  Rude to decline it!  Still, I’m grateful to my brother for letting me be an authorized user.

I headed back to town and went back to the Tourist Center to get my Belfast magnet and a present for Becca.  Then I walked around and did some street photography.  

It’s late so I’ll pick up in the morning.

I had a wonderful time exploring Belfast and will definitely return, hopefully sooner rather than later.  I still can’t put my finger on why Belfast ‘speaks’ to be while Dublin doesn’t.  Maybe because it’s smaller?  I had hoped to go to Belfast Castle while I was there, but I just ran out of time.  Also, when I was working on my photographs of the Titanic Museum, I had a bit of regret for not getting tickets.  I think I really would have enjoyed the history of shipbuilding and the Titanic. 

(Originally shared with friend on November 5, 2023). The photo above is of me and my new friends, Joyce and David, at the Bushmills Distillery in Northern Ireland. More photos can be found here.

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original travel journal. Plain text words are edits for clarification within the original journal or post travel thoughts.

Make sure you check out my photos which can be viewed here. Click on ‘A Northern Path ~ An Irish Adventure Continues’.  Also, the photos will have more information about  the sights than what I’ve written in my travel journal.  The newest photos start on page three of the gallery

September 13, Bushmills, Northern Ireland

I got to Bushmills Distillery early and discovered that photographs were not allowed.  I put my camera back in the car and when I got back to the meeting spot for the tour, I saw a couple that was on the tour at Bru na Boinne.  It was nice to run into them and we became fast friends.  They were able to snag a last minute tour ticket and when the tour started, the drizzle had turned into a near downpour, and the temperature dropped significantly.  The tour of the distillery was nice, but the complimentary drink at the end was the highlight.  (I chose the 16 year old Single Malt that warmed me up!) They even gave us a small bottle to take home (the traditional whiskey).  

After the tour, Joyce and David, my new friends, and I made plans to meet for dinner at 7pm, but they wanted to go to Giant’s Causeway beforehand, as it would be their only opportunity to visit it.  (I planned on visiting it the next day).  I met them at Giant’s Causeway, after trading in my rain coat for my Barbour.  At Bushmills, I bought myself a watch cap with the idea of having it as my sleeping cap.  I wore my new watch cap to the Causeway as it was cold and windy, and I was afraid my rain hat would be blown off.  By now, the rain was definitely a downpour and the walk to the rocks was not pleasant.  At one point, the wind was so strong that had I not been Warrior Borne, I would have been blown into the sea!

We had dinner at Grey’s, a restaurant my hostess and their hostess recommended.  I really wanted the Irish Beef but they were out of it after we ordered it.  (The carrot soup was quite nice).  And my dessert choice was not available after ordering it.  I ordered the brownie instead which was very good.  Dinner ended up being chicken strips that were OK.  I regret not swiping a small dinner plate with a lovely Celtic design on it as an act of protest for having two items unavailable after ordering them, but wanted to make a good impression on Joyce and David.  Dinner overall was OK but the company was wonderful.

Early to bed because I want to get up early to go to Giant’s Causeway at sunrise.

(14 September, Bushmills, Northern Ireland)

I got up this morning before sunrise and drove to the hotel near Giant’s Causeway.  I initially thought of walking there because my B&B was a fifteen minute walk to the Causeway, but I realized since I’d be there so early, it would make more sense, and save time, to just park at the hotel that was next to the Giant’s Causeway Visitor Center.  I knew I would be gone before the tour buses and tourists would appear.  I walked down and had the place to myself.  It was stunningly beautiful and was so serene after the storm from the night before.  As I explored, I burst into praise.  There is such a powerful feeling of awe watching the waves crash into the rocks, the sun rise and hearing birdsong.  It was a beautiful spot for prayer.  I walked the trail until it ended then walked up the Shepherd’s Steps on my way back.  The view from there was amazing.  I didn’t climb up to the top because the steps were wet, steep and short and I’m old and out of shape.  But I don’t think I missed anything by not going all the way up, except perhaps a view of what I had.  I made my way down the steps and headed back.  I finally passed a few people but it was still pretty deserted.  By now, it was after 8am and a beautiful day was developing.  I captured some more photos on the rocks and then headed back to my car.  I walked a little more than 4 miles, all before a cup of coffee!

Gotta get in the shower – check out is in an hour.

Originally shared with friends and family on December 16, 2023. The above photo is the view from Grianan of Aileach in Ireland. More photos can be found here.

I’m sorry it’s been over a month since my last chapter!  I’ll try to do better.

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original travel journal. Plain text words are edits for clarification within the original journal or post travel thoughts.

Make sure you check out my photos, which can be viewed here. Click on ‘A Northern Path ~ An Irish Adventure Continues’.  Also, the photos will have more information about  the sights than what I’ve written in my travel journal.  The newest photos start on page four of the gallery.

September 14th, Bushmills, Northern Ireland

My stay in Bushmills was wonderful, and it was so nice to meet up with Joyce and David. My hotel (Carnside Guest House) was nice and comfortable and I would definitely stay there again.

After I checked out, I headed to the coffee shop Paul recommended.  (Fidela Coffee Roasters, in Coleraine, UK). It smelled heavenly and I bought myself an iced Americano and a bag of coffee – the same one Paul raved about, and had it ground for French Press.  I can’t wait to brew it for my porch devotions!  Paul raved about the El Para blend, which is what I bought, and it smelled amazing in my suitcase.  When I came home I brewed some for my Saturday devotion porch time and found it to be milder than I’m used to.  I drink it more on weekend afternoons than weekend mornings and enjoy it very much.

The weather has been a little tricky this trip, everything from clear, bright days to downpours.  The temperature has ranged from 50 to 68^.  I’ve worn both my rain coat and my Barbour and I’m glad I got my Barbour rewaxed!  I’m also glad I bought a sweater and the Bushmills cap!

After picking up the coffee, because the weather was mild and the sun was out, I decided to go to the fort thing before heading to Londonderry.  (I don’t have my phone with me and don’t remember the name but I will make sure I get it). (It’s Griana of Aileach).  I had originally planned to go there after checking out in Londonderry but I really don’t have an agenda.  When I got to the fort, it started raining but luckily it didn’t last long.

The fort was cool and the views were amazing.  Afterwards, I headed up to the northernmost point in Ireland.  I again was happy for my watch cap as it was pretty windy.  The views were spectacular and it reminded me of Mitzen Head with boggy ground, walk ways, crains, high cliffs, winds, and beautiful rocky coast.

I spent about an hour there and just marveled at God’s creation.  Seeing such unique beauty is worth the financial sacrifices I’ve made and will continue to make.

My car is so dirty!  But it seems like a good car and is comfortable.  I’m glad I bought a cheap phone holder that attaches to the vents because when I had my phone connected to the car’s navigation, it didn’t seem happy.  But that might have been because I was ‘roaming’ in Northern Ireland.  We’ll see how it behaves when I’m back in Ireland for good.

My breakfast this morning was very filling.  Pork sausage and bacon, black pudding, grilled tomato, portobello mushrooms, potato bread and a dome of scrambled eggs.  This paragraph in my travel journal really confused me because I hadn’t been very careful with dates.  I finally figured out the breakfast was at my Londonderry hotel before I checked out.

After I was done at the cliffs, I drove to Londonderry and checked in.  My hotel is within the city walls and is quite lovely (The Shipquay Hotel – I highly recommend it).  After I got settled, I went to explore and walked along the wall and enjoyed the views.  I wanted to eat and saw a pub that served food.  I walked over to it and to my delight they had Smithwicks on tap.  I promptly ordered one as well as the Steak and Guinness Pie with mashed potatoes and mushy peas.  It was amazing!  So so good and probably the best meal I had.  (The pub was called the Bentley Bar).

After enjoying my dinner, I headed back to the hotel and took a quick shower.  Because I got up at sunrise, I wanted to get some sleep and slept very soundly.

Originally shared with friends and family on January 20, 2024. The above photo is of some sheep at Sliabh Liag. More photos can be found here.

Again, I’m so sorry it’s been over a month since my last chapter!  

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original travel journal. Plain text words are edits for clarification within the original journal or post travel thoughts.

Make sure you check out my photos, which can be viewed here. Click on ‘A Northern Path ~ An Irish Adventure Continues’.  Also, the photos will have more information about  the sights than what I’ve written in my travel journal.  I’ve also geotagged the photos so if you are inclined to see where exactly I was, you can select the little ‘i’ button on the bottom right of the photo, then select the map.  Some photos I don’t remember exactly where I was.  The newest photos start on page four of the gallery.  

The last chapter ended after I arrived at Londonderry and had a wonderful dinner at the Bentley Bar

15 September, Londonderry

After breakfast, I’m going to explore a bit before I have to check out.  There is a jewelry store nearby that I want to see.  I really wanted to get a unique ring from Ireland.  Then I’ll check out, pack up the car then meet for my walking tour of the Troubles.

Saturday 16 September – the Cliffs on a beautiful Saturday on top of the mountain.  Very windy, though

The walking tour of the Troubles, especially Bloody Sunday, was again very informative.  Dave was my tour guide and his brother, William, was killed by the Paras on that horrible day.  I had Dave all to myself as my tour guide.  The day was grey and drizzly.  I understand the anger of the Catholic citizens but I don’t understand why the British took such a hard stance.  I don’t understand a ‘shoot on sight’ order for citizens who were assembling.  The whole situation is very sad and troubling.  None of the soldiers involved have been held accountable, which is mind blowing. Dave said only one soldier, Soldier F, has been charged with crimes associated with Bloody Sunday.  But when I was driving to Donegal, I heard on the radio that the British government recently passed a law to halt all prosecution of those involved in the Troubles.

After the tour, and exploring Guildhall, I headed to Tully View, about an hour away in County Donegal.  It was raining most of the trip and once I got settled, I went to the local Spar (grocery convenience store) to get some groceries.  I wanted to just have a quiet evening and relax, which is what I did.  I met Paul, the caretaker, who is quite nice.  The guesthouse, which is attached to the main house but has a separate entrance, is quite nice but the Wifi is spotty.  The upstairs is spacious with two Queen size beds.  The stairs are steep and short.  The bathroom is on the main floor.  There was a kitchen but it was very spartan.  Still, it was nice to cook for myself during my time there.

This morning (16 September), the weather promises to be clear so though I don’t have an agenda, I want to make the most of the day because of the weather.  Right now I’m above the Sliabh Liag viewing platform, catching up on my journal.  (Sliabh Liag is pronounced ‘Sleeve League’).  It’s beautiful but windy.  The walk has been quite nice with sheep wondering about the weird American girl, but I had to take a break from the hike.  It’s a tough one and I can tell I’m slower than I was last year.

Alright, the wind is picking up.  Onward and upward.

I don’t know how much further I went but I found a path upward that seemed less traveled.  I took it and was rewarded by an amazing view with comfortable solitude.  I took some photos and then noticed a little lamb below me, seeming to also enjoy the view and the solitude.  An American couple soon joined me (we arrived at Sliabh Liag at the same time but they hiked faster and higher than I did).  We talked a bit and took photos for each other then they left (they were from Cincinnati)  Another person came up and then some more people, so I decided to descend.  I had been there since 9.30a and it was almost noon.  I made my way down, bought some magnets, then headed out.

I had been on the Wild Atlantic Way and it was nice to be on it again.  I had a map of Donegal but decided not to use it or GPS but to follow my instincts.  The guy I bought the magnets from mentioned two places to check out so I pointed the car in that general direction and started again.

Driving in Ireland was again exhilarating but I found myself getting annoyed with timid drivers.  I’m pretty sure Irish rental cars have a special license plate indicating they are rentals and thus indicating tourists, too!  In my mind, if you are too scared to drive in Ireland, you have no business driving in Ireland!

As I was driving along I saw billboards for a local woolen mill and decided to stop in (The Glencolmcille Woollen Mill). The shop was nice and I spied a tweed purse that I liked, but didn’t get it.  I did, however, buy a little stuffed lamb wearing a green hat.  He wanted to go home with me and as we were on our way he told me his name was Ewe-an. (I know that is technically incorrect as ewes are female, and in my prologue I renamed him Ewe-anne.  He was not pleased with this and insists he is Ewe-an.  Who am I to argue with a stuffed lamb wearing a green hat!)

The shopkeeper seconded the recommendation of the magnet seller so I headed that way.  (I was referred to a quiet beach).  The view was stunning.  I then just made myself around the countryside, marveling at the immense beauty.  The landscape was mountainous and barren with boulders and sheep everywhere.  They were in the road, alongside the road, and everywhere in the landscape.  As I was admiring the landscape and the sheep, I thought of the Good Shepherd and how He leaves the 99 to look for the lost one.  I imagined if he was in Ireland, it would certainly be difficult to look for the lost one, because there were so many ledges and crannies a sheep could get into.  I then started thinking of the little lamb I saw on the ledge at Sliabh Liag.  A radical thought then crossed my mind.  In all my years, I’ve always pictured the Lost Lamb to be timid and afraid.  Like maybe it was running away from a predator, or simply wasn’t paying attention and fell into a cranny.  But the little lamb on the mountainside didn’t remind me of a timid and afraid lamb – it reminded me of a lamb that gave zero fucks.  Like it was done with its fellow lambs and just wanted to be alone.  In fact, when I was talking with the American couple, the lamb knew we were there, but didn’t care.  And I realized that it represented a different type of lost.  A type that had given up on the flock, like it was tired of being lost in the crowd, or didn’t feel wanted or needed. Or it was disenchanted with the policies and politics of the flock and thought it was better off being by itself.  But thank God the Good Shepherd looks for Zero Fucks sheep just as adamently as he does for Lost Sheep and Timid Sheep.  God is so good.

I then headed to Donegal and stayed for about 30-45 minutes, walking around the center of town.  I didn’t take any photos but simply enjoyed myself.  I then headed back to Tully View.

Tully View is OK.  The space is nice but the stairs are steep and short.  It is very lacking in kitchen usefulness as there were only bare bones amenities – not even salt and pepper.  Paul had recommended a beach to view the sunset and I decided to go since the day had been so clear.  The beach was very nice and I decided to wait an hour for sunset.  On the beach I found a Charlie rock and then found his angel wings in the form of a shell.  I became very melancholy about my whole trip.  Last year was about finding myself – finding Kelly the Brave.  But this year there is a sense of loss.  Perhaps it’s a reflection of everything that’s happened this year – Bert’s sudden death, Beth’s accident, but I am acutely aware of how lonely I am and how much I would enjoy experiencing Ireland with someone by my side.  It was a horrible realization and it still makes me cry.

I don’t want to end this chapter on such a sad note.  I realized I never wrote about lunch.  After leaving Malin Bar, the beach that the magnet seller and woolen mills shopkeeper recommended, I headed north and ended up in Burtonport and had a wonderful lunch at the Lobster Pot.  In the past days I had covered much of County Donegal and enjoyed how beautiful the countryside was.  I think County Donegal is one of my favorite counties in Ireland

Stay tuned for the next chapter, which hopefully will be released in less than a month!  We’re headed south to Sligo and County Mayo!

Originally shared with friends and family on March 17, 2024. The above photo is of a stone spiral I found near Carrowmore Beach in Ballinlena, Ireland. More photos can be found here.

Happy St Patrick’s Day!  A perfect day to share another chapter of my travel journal, A Northern Path.

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original travel journal. Plain text words are edits for clarification within the original journal or post travel thoughts.

Make sure you check out my photos, which can be viewed here. Click on ‘A Northern Path ~ An Irish Adventure Continues’.  Also, the photos will have more information about  the sights than what I’ve written in my travel journal.  I’ve also geotagged the photos so if you are inclined to see where exactly I was, you can select the little ‘i’ button on the bottom right of the photo, then select the map.  Some photos I don’t remember exactly where I was.  The newest photos start on page five of the gallery.  

Chapter 6 ended on a sad note.  I was missing Chuck immensely and had a lot on my mind.  Hopefully, Chapter 7 is much happier.  Let’s jump in!

Today is Sunday 17 September 2023, and I stopped in Sligo for lunch.  Irish Pot Roast with mixed veg and mashed potatoes.  And Smithwicks on tap!

After I left Tully View (in County Donegal), I headed South.  The weather was grey and drizzly but I stopped on my way to Ballinlena to get a better view of a castle that I saw off the beaten path.  I turned off the main road and saw a lot of cars parked on the side and thought I must be close to the castle.  I pulled over and parked, then started walking.  I met a man and he recommended that I walk across the dunes to the beach.  It was nice, weather wise, as the rain had stopped, so I took him up on it.  I walked down the lane and came across a soccer game.  I stopped and watched for a bit then headed to the beach.

I opened the gate as indicated and soon saw a bunch of cows who were resting nearby.  Some of them paid me no attention but others were very curious about the American who was saying ‘good morning’ to them and walking towards the beach.  The beach itself was beautiful.  Completely deserted and revealing a nice view of the castle.  I laughed at myself because although a lot of travel blogs mentioned Ireland’s beaches, I didn’t seek them out as I’m a mountain girl, but here I was on my second beach in two days!

I had a nice talk with God about a lot of things.  (The ocean is so therapeutic!) In some ways, this is a much different trip than last year.  Yesterday especially during sunset, I was feeling so lonely, but if it is God’s will for me to remain . . . independent, then that’s what I’ll be.  It’s funny – balancing my will and decisions with God’s will.  But I know God’s will is so much better than what I would ever dream of!  On a side note, I recently realized that attracting a man is not a problem – it’s willing to put up with their bullshit that makes me pause!  Apparently, my ideal male has four legs and purrs!

After leaving the beach and taking photos of the castle, I drove to a different viewpoint of the castle and found a memorial to a man who lived in a cottage near the castle.  He was poor and had to burn his own furniture in order not to freeze.  He died and the villagers were saddened that he died alone, and made a memorial to him and to the poor.

The castle that I was shooting was Castle Classiebawn – a castle that was on my list to see.  It was very beautiful.

I then made my way down to Sligo and had a very good lunch and caught up on my journal (see above for the lunch description).  Then, with a full belly, I headed to Sunset View (really called Sunrise View B&B, but throughout my journal I called it Sunset View for some reason.  I will not correct the mistake from my journal, but just remember it’s Sunrise View, and I highly recommend it if you ever find yourself in County Mayo).

It was a mix of rain and mist all day so no sunset at Sunset View.  Still, the place is very nice and I have a huge bathroom with a jacuzzi tub all to myself.  The hostess is incredibly kind and I would stay here again.  I decided to stretch my legs and went for a little walk.  But the rain and wind picked up so I headed back.  I gave myself a nice soak in the tub and had a facial mask.  Pure relaxation.

Monday, 18 September

I’m currently in Downpatrick Head on a surprisingly clear day.  It’s gorgeous – fearocious winds and waves but so peaceful.  I’m off exploring and will shut off GPS again.

(R314-R313-N59-R319) Those are roads that I jotted down in my journal as I mapped a route.  N roads are national roads, usually two to four lanes, R roads are regional roads, usually two lanes and L roads are local roads, usually the ones that look like alleys!

 I cheated a little and had the GPS available but I didn’t really need it.  I was more concerned about running out of gas than I was getting lost.  My route took me on the R314 to L1204 to R313 to N59.  I got gas in Mallaranny then headed to the White Cliffs of Ashleam.  The road to the White Cliffs was covered with sheep and I regretted leaving Ewe-an at the B&B.  Sheep were everywhere – even resting on the road!  The cliffs were beautiful but it was so windy!  I stayed there for about 30 minutes then headed out.  I was going to go to another cliff (the Cliffs of Croaghuan), but it had started raining so I turned around.  I also wanted to go to the woolen mill my hostess recommended, but it was an overpriced disappointment.  It was about 4.30-445 and though I wasn’t overly hungry, I wanted to get some hot food into my belly.  I searched restaurants on Google and noticed a pub with a 5 star rating and headed to it, only to find that it was inside a hotel!  Still, by then, I *was* hungry so I sat down.  I ordered a Smithwicks and Seafood Chowderand it was amazing!  Last year I hiked near the Cliffs of Moher and though I didn’t go there properly, I much preferred the serenity and peacefulness of the White Cliffs of Ashleam in County Mayo and Sliabh Liag in County Donegal.

I got back to the B&B around 6pm and at 7pm decided to go for a walk towards the beach.  I happened along a spiral stone circle and was captivated by the waves crashing into the shore.  I then spied a trail and Kelly the Brave turned into Kelly the Idiot as I thought it was a good idea to walk along the cliffs at dust on an unmarked trail that was slick with rain and mud.  I had a slip that put some sense into my thick head and turned around!

Tomorrow I’m heading to Kylemore Abbey.  It’s crazy that I only have a few more days here.

I have a hard time deciding if I prefer County Mayo or County Donegal.  I guess I’ll have to return for more research on the subject!

Thanks for reading and Happy St Patrick’s Day

Originally shared with friends and family on November 27, 2024. The above photos is a Silly Selfie of me on the grounds of Kylemore Abbey. More photos can be found here.

It was NOT my intention to wait eight months between chapters, and I do apologize.  I had an unplanned move in a short time frame which took up most of my summer, then spent autumn settling in and trying to turn a weed patch into a garden. 

As a reminder, words written in italics represent the original travel journal. Plain text words are edits for clarification within the original journal or post travel thoughts.

Make sure you check out my photos, which can be viewed here. Click on ‘A Northern Path ~ An Irish Adventure Continues’.  Also, the photos will have more information about  the sights than what I’ve written in my travel journal.  I’ve also geotagged the photos so if you are inclined to see where exactly I was, you can select the little ‘i’ button on the bottom right of the photo, then select the map.  The newest photos start on the bottom of page six of the gallery.  

Chapter 7 ended after a day of exploring County Sligo and County Mayo, and I was heading to Kylemore Abbey the following day.

19 September, Leenane

This morning, I got up at 7am and took a shower.  I had reserved breakfast for 8.30 and I was hungry.  Breakfast the day before was so good – sausage, beans, bacon, white pudding, toast, and two fried eggs – one chicken and one duck.  It was fabulous, except for the beans – very ketchupy.  Today I had the same, but no beans.  I got an extra sausage instead.

There was another guest who had checked in and was joining me for breakfast.  His name was Richard and he was Australian-American from LA.  He had the gift of gab.  His stories weren’t uninteresting, just long winded.  And he interrupted a lot.  I absolutely hate being interrupted, especially by a man!

Connacht Whiskey – check it out (written in the margin)

Check out was at 11am and I was keen to get to Kylemore Abbey sooner rather than later.  I finally pulled myself away and was on the road around 11am.

Of all the places that I’ve stayed at, so far Sunset View is my favorite.  Michaela the hostess was very welcoming and the room was incredibly comfortable.  I had a huge bathroom for myself as well.  I would definitely stay here again.

Tully View was the most disappointing.  It was very sterile and though Paul was friendly enough, it didn’t seem comfortable, although the bed was very comfortable – probably the best bed this trip.  I’m surprised that it got raving reviews because the kitchen was so depleted of items (not like Mitzen View from last year). 

The trip to Kylemore was two hours.  It started raining buckets and I could tell it was very windy outside.  Happily, though, by the time I got to Kylemore Abbey, the rain had subsided.  I parked and after getting my ticket settled, decided to go to the gardens as it wasn’t raining.  The gardens were quite nice with both fruits and vegetable beds, along with flower beds.  It was a great source of inspiration.  The grounds were quite nice and the wind howled on the mountain above but didn’t reach me.

I then went into the main house but wasn’t overly impressed,  Biltmore, Versaille, Kylemore – you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all.  Still, if I had the opportunity to see the Downton Abbey house I would probably jump at the chance.

I then walked around and found myself by the private church.  It was beautiful and had the most stunning crucifix I had ever seen.  I’m still weird about taking photos inside a Catholic Church and didn’t, but I really wish I had.

I then walked along a pathway hoping it would loop to a view of the Abbey, but it didn’t.  By now, it was about 3.15p and though I had already been by the gardens, I had seen a posting about the ponies being fed at 3.30p.  I got in line for the shuttle as it would be quicker than walking. (I initially took the shuttle to the garden because it was there, but walked back to the house).  While I was waiting, I struck up a conversation with an American couple from St Louis.  They got to Ireland on Sunday and are staying until early October.  They flew Aer Lingus but didn’t have a good experience with them (I don’t think Dr Hill had a good experience with them either).  Anyway, as we were talking, it started raining buckets again.  I stayed long enough to see the ponies being fed (Snowy and Egie) then headed back.

My last stop was the gift shop.  I certainly helped the Irish economy!

I checked into Leenane Hotel, which I passed on the way to Kylemore Abbey.  It’s a lovely hotel but I’m sure I’m one of the youngest guests here!  I’ve run into lots of German and French tourists, especially at the abbey.

The hotel offers breakfast as part of the package and has a pub connected to it.  As it was such a rainy day, I fancied something warm to eat and a pint.  After I brought all of my luggage in, I had to laugh that I had so many bags with me – four for one person!  But the pink one is only half full.  I need to rearrange everything before my flight home and hopefully everything will fit!  My master plan is to check the pink bag again with my backpack in it and have the small carry-on and my Bento bag as my personal item.  (On my flight to Dublin, I nested the carryon in the pink checked bag and had my Bento bag and backpack).

Anyway, I came down to the pub and got a table by the fireplace and ordered a Smithwicks.  Then later for dinner I ordered the Irish stew and it was amazing!  Perfect dinner for a rainy day.  I will sleep well tonight!

After dinner I was writing in my journal when I decided to invite an old man who was sitting by himself to join me.  His name is Vince Kerrigan and is very nice.  He seems like a local fixture as he knows a lot of the other old men who trickled in.  Now, his friend Joseph has joined us.  In ten minutes, local music will play in the lounge and I’m curious about it (It was good initially until they did a Maroon 5 cover!)

Drive on Louisburgh Rd next time, according to Joseph.   Oh, and Vince said I looked 35!

Why do I feel guilty about buying Irish earrings for myself?  I love Mom’s earrings so much but they are getting more and more fragile.  I almost lost one of them twice this trip – once on the plane!  I would be devastated if something happened to them.  Still, I feel guilty, like I’m replacing her by wearing different earrings, which is utter nonsense.

Tomorrow I’m off to my castle.

Have a wonderful Thanksgiving!